Blown Away

I awake in the Caledonian Sleeper the same way I went to sleep, to the sound of a child playing a hand held video game in the sleeping compartment contiguous to mine. Even though I ended up with a sleeper compartment all to myself, the obnoxious sounds from his game was like having a companion in my ear. The boy was traveling with his mom. The device seemed to replace conversation between the two of them. Oh well, I have a country to explore.

I manage to get on the first train to Thurso from Inverness even though I do not have a bicycle reservation. I play the dumb tourist and the conductor allows me to add a third bike to the storage area meant for two.

People are walking about the streets of Inverness with winter coats, hats and some with gloves and scarfs on. Oh oh, I have come north again. But it is sunny. They are braced as much against the wind as the chilly air.

I find a place for coffee and something that it looks like Scottish people eat for breakfast.

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On the train to Thurso, I meet three other cyclists who are planning an end-to-end trip. I am loaned a book written about doing the trip following back roads from Lands End to John O Groats. I quickly read it (backwards) and immediately change my plans. The description of the route, mostly on B roads and sometimes even smaller, sounds compelling. I had originally planned on starting down the east coast, following mainly A roads. No more. The book describes parts of the route as the best cycling in northern Europe.

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So instead of Thurso by train, I head to Wick. From Wick, I go north to John O Groats and then west to Thurso but by bicycle. The train schedule is such that I do not start cycling until 3 pm.

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As soon as I am out of the town of Wick, the scenery is stunning and panoramic. And the wind is howling from the west.

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The wind broadsides me all the way to the top of the Scottish mainland, John O Groats.

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Note that the sign is missing at the top of the post. Apparently it is stolen as soon as a new one is put up.

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I experience my first accident. Upon stopping in the wind, the bike gets blown over so quickly, I cannot get my foot out of the pedal cleat so over I go with the bike on top of me. As usual, more embarrassing than serious but the shift lever punctures my thigh. Probably the best place in my body to be punctured as there is a lot of muscle there to penetrate. Note to self: design a rubber shift lever cover. Probably best not to upload photo of the wound but email me if you’re interested.

When I head west from John O Groats the wind is fierce and in my face. Even though it is the strongest wind of the trip so far, I am so fresh and psychologically prepared for it, I take its full force with a sense of humour. Bring it on.

I follow a tiny road, more like a paved pathway, most of the way to Thurso, the National Cycle Network 1, NCN1. A pleasure.

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There are more sheep than cars up here. By far.

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And beautiful views of the rugged north Atlantic. The ocean is full of white horses a man by the shore tells me. Horses, I ask? Those white curly waves, aye, he says.

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Fun to be on the road again with such a simple life living out of two small panniers.

Stats – for Tuesday 4 September 2012

Start: Wick
Finish: Thurso
Distance: 60 km
Time on Bike: 4 hours
Average Speed: 12 km/hr
Distance to Date: 9,000
(all estimates – the bike is locked away)

Mourning, Honouring, Resuming

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Three days after I completed my cycling trip across Canada, my dear father, Neil G. Hawley, Jr. died after a long battle with Parkinson’s Disease. He was eighty-seven.

He is survived by my mother, his seven children, twenty-two grandchildren and one great grandchild. In place of me spending time catching up on my blog, I spent ten days with my family doing what I could to help my mother prepare to be without her life partner.

As I do not know who happens upon this blog, should anyone be interested in a eulogy I read and sang at a funeral mass in honour of my father, it appears at the end of this blog.

I was fortunate to get to participate in two Pearson College alumni reunions, a thirty-year and a ten-year reunion, during the three days between finishing the continental crossing and my father’s death. The energy from them was inspiring.

Presently I am in the Caledonian Sleeper on Monday evening 3 September heading north from London to Inverness, Scotland. I will wake up tomorrow morning with a four hour train journey ahead of me from Inverness to Thurso, the closest one can get by train to the northernmost town of John O’ Groats.

After flying to London, I spent Sunday catching up on jet lag and assembling my bicycle. It has been living inside a box for sixteen days. It has crossed Canada three times. Once on land and twice in the air and it just flew over the north Atlantic and landed without a scratch. The only change I made was to put on a new back tire, another 40 mm Schwalbe Marathon Supreme.

Today, I puzzle over how light to pack. I decide to leave my tent, sleeping bag and sleeping pad behind. This leaves me needing just two small panniers and one rack top bag. I think I am now carrying under twenty pounds. There are so many hostels and Bed & Breakfast places on the route that a tent and camping gear make no sense for the upcoming 1,500 kilometers.

I am well cared for in London by my mother-in-law, Ellie Weld, and her partner, David London. And here is my slimmed down bicycle on the train platform near their home heading to London.

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And inside the train.

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I cycle from Waterloo to Euston Station impressed by a city full of bicycles. And the city bike rental scheme is hugely popular. The first thirty minutes are free and you can ride for a long time for just one Pound.

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Eulogy
Neil G. Hawley Jr
30 November 1924 – 19 August 2012

(to be read out loud and, in two places, sung)

We are here today to do something unusual: To make my father, Neil G. Hawley Jr, the center of attention.

My Dad lived his life in such a way that it was never about him or his needs. He was always living his life for us and for our needs. And he made sure that our needs, or in the case of my mother, her commands, always came first. I am convinced he willed his own life to end at a time that was convenient for others, allowing us to do what we had planned first, like Bryan and Kristen getting married, his first grandson, Ryan, having his birthday, and me finishing my cross-country bicycle trip. Indeed, all of us were busy doing our own things when he took his last breath. Just, I think, as he would want it to be. He slipped away quietly not drawing attention to himself. Fitting for a man who never raised his voice, never had an unkind thing to say about anyone and who never judged others harshly. Like the gentleman he was, he left us gently.

Dad never complained and he floated through life peacefully, like the way he treaded water in his white t-shirt and baggy swim trunks wearing a beat up Red Sox baseball cap on his head at New Silver Beach in Falmouth, following the tide and current of those around him. He was a devoutly religious man, leading not with sermon or scripture but by something more powerful: by example. For many years, he left quietly early each morning during lent to attend mass while we slept. He prayed each night before he went to bed. I am sure, not for himself but for each one of us. When Sister Lorenza was knocked over by a student running during recess at St Catherine of Sienna school causing the nun, in full habit, to fall and break her arm, my Dad dutifully filled his wood paneled station wagon with paper from Hollingsworth & Vose Company until the bottom of the car was scraping on the ground and delivered it to the school so that all the students could be punished by writing: “I will not run in the playground” until their fingers were calloused and bleeding. I remember our family pilgrimages to have mass outdoors at the Cathedral of the Pines in New Hampshire. And I remember learning to use rosary beads as we kneeled in front of a burning red votive candle in our living room. As a driver, he had a horrible sense of direction and was forever getting lost. As a Catholic however, he never lost his direction and today I am confident he has reached his desired destination.

And did he ever work hard. Again without complaint or apparent burden. When we were all growing up at 32 East Cross Street, Dad often held multiple jobs at once. During the day an accountant at the mill, in the evening stripping and cleaning floors in office buildings, on weekends doing the bookkeeping for Norwood Arena, preparing tax returns for friends and extended family, counting votes on election nights for the Town of Norwood, and sometimes driving a taxi. He did all of this work while finding time to have seven children and while earning his second university degree. Every workday for 44 years he came home from the office to have lunch with my mother. And after lunch he would return to the office with a McIntosh apple in his hand, always remembering to kiss my mother goodbye as he left through the porch door. He modeled a work life balance that eludes most of us today.

In addition to serving his family, he also served his nation during World War II as a paratrooper. Yet another contribution he made that he hardly spoke about and something he never sought special praise for doing. Like most things in his life, he just did what needed to be done.

Every one of his children, grandchildren and great grandchildren enjoyed his playful attention. He took us all for rides on his knee singing silly songs as we bounced up and down: “To the Dump, To the Dump, to the Dump, Dump Dump.” He put us to sleep with bedtime stories, not ones he would read from a book but stories he made up just for us, often featuring other members of the family. Pretty creative stuff for an accountant. He knew who was struggling and who needed special attention. My Dad was fond of hiding Necco Wafers all around the house for us to find when we came home from school. If I could not do my paper route on foot when a rain or snowstorm was raging, guess who would drive me around? He was a liberated man in the way he comfortably did such chores as the laundry, the dishes and the grocery shopping, years before that was something men were actually expected share with their wives. Weekends he made us eggs just the way we wanted and woke us up with the smell of bacon frying in the kitchen. He taught us the virtues of voting Democratic but never asked us to reveal how we actually voted. Maybe that was best knowing my siblings. I loved climbing trees and when I got my arm or leg caught between the branches, my Dad would climb up and get me unstuck. No matter how busy or how tight the family budget, he would find ways to take us all on summer vacations. Some of these were ambitious, like drives to the New York World’s Fair or to the beaches of Atlantic Canada but mostly they were to the Cape Cod seashore and usually involved at least one mechanical mishap like a broken radiator hose. Something that he was clueless about but it didn’t matter because we always got there.

And he gave us all the love of reading and the joy of a good mystery novel. And he taught us too, to be ready to talk about the weather at all times. Whenever I called him, from wherever I was living in the world, he would always know what the weather was like there. He absorbed the Weather Channel.

His greatest love, for a man whose love and devotion was endless, was for his dear wife, Peggy. I still don’t feel grown up enough to call my mother Peggy but work with me here. As I have been in schools for over three decades, I have seen the play “Oliver” and heard the song “I’ll do Anything for You” many times.

You remember the song:

I’ll do anything for you, my dear, anything,
for you mean everything to me
I’d go anywhere for you dear, anywhere…

Well, my father probably did not sing that song but he sure lived it. With my mother he danced, he went on cruises, he had seven children, he drove everywhere, and he lived as long as he could.

Each one of us will have our own stories about my father and I will conclude with one of mine.

When I was just twenty years old, I decided to go to Guatemala for my first teaching job. Early in the morning when I was leaving and putting my luggage into my Dad’s car he said to me:
“David – you know your mother and I do not want you to be going to Guatemala. It’s a bad idea. But we both want you to know one thing: We still love you.”

I cried much of the way to Central America because I had never heard him say something like that before. I have thought about that day often ever since and I realize that he never really had to say the words. We all knew how much he loved each of us unconditionally. It gave us all so much freedom to know that his love and support was always there whatever we chose to do or wherever we chose to go.

And although he is now gone from us in body, his spirit and his love will never leave us as long we live.

May my Dad tread water as often as he wishes and occasionally take time to rest. In Peace.

I love you too Dad.

Stats for Monday 3 September 2012

Start: Twickenham
Finish: London (really just some errands and a bit of riding in London)
Distance: 20 km
Time on Bike: 1 hour 57 minutes
Average Speed: 10 km/hr
Distance to Date: 8,066 km

Reached St. John’s Newfoundland

Made it to St John’s Newfoundland today, Wednesday 15 August. The odometer clicked over to 8,000 km. Tonight, a celebration with alumni. Tomorrow, a final dozen or so kilometers to Cape Spear, the easternmost point of land to complete the continental crossing.

And tomorrow too, an interview at Noon, Newfoundland time, on CBC Radio: St. John’s Radio Noon, 12:00pm – 1:30pm.

Thanks to everyone who made this possible.

Petit Temis

It is a bit sad to contemplate leaving the shore of the St Lawrence River and the Gaspe Peninsula but it is time to begin heading south to St John, New Brunswick. This is where my mother was born and so this is a kind of family pilgrimage.

From Rivière du Loup there is a dedicated bike path called the Petit Temis. It runs a full 132 km to Edmundston.

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It follows an old rail line and has been beautifully groomed for cycling all the way. And little pavilions have been built for picnicking and places for camping have been created too.

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Along the way, I pass a town with such a fun name.

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The trail follows right along the shore of lake Temiscouata for about 40 km.

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I go for a sunset swim and notice the cyclist tan line I am developing this summer.

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Because I am not on a road, after finding a place to eat, I continue cycling well after sunset along the trail with a simple headlight. I make it to the New Brunswick Botanical Garden in St Jacques. I have a plan to find a corner of the garden to pitch a tent for the night.

When I enter the park around midnight I am met with two security guards in a golf cart. Much to my surprise they ask me if I want to camp there. I thought they were patrolling to keep people out of the park. So I set up the tent in a beautiful spot and settle in for a good night sleep.

Stats – for Tuesday 31 July 2012

Start: Rivière du Loup, QC
Finish: St Jacques, NB
Distance: 132 km
Time on Bike: 7 hrs 46 min
Average Speed: 17 km/hr
Distance to Date: 6,611 km

River Love

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How sweet to have a cartoon character helping me along the road by reminding drivers to share it with me.

It is a challenge to draw myself away from my peaceful campsite along the river in the morning. But the road beckons and there are some historic villages to pass through today. They include the village of Kamouraska, the setting of the novel and movie of the same name and it has the reputation of being one of the twenty most beautiful villages in Quebec.

I am having some cycling love affairs with rivers. First the Ottawa now the St Lawrence. In each case there are either dedicated bike paths or lightly travelled roads that hug the shore. Such a peaceful way to cross the continent, following one river then another.

Here are some images as I approach Kamouraska.

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I find lunch at a cafe along the river in Kamouraska.

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I keep pedaling along La Route Verte, which is essentially Route 132, all the way to Rivière du Loup. Here I find a campground and a meal. This time deep in the woods with no view of the river.

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Stats – for Monday 30 July 2012

Start: Port Joli
Finish: Rivière du Loup
Distance: 97 km
Time on Bike: 4 hrs 49 min
Average Speed: 20.1 km/hr
Distance to Date: 6,478 km

Along the St Lawrence

I get a real treat today. A person to ride with me all day. Peter Dunn joins me for my ride east along the St Lawrence River. We take the ferry from Quebec City to the town of Lévis the south shore.

The city and the ferry are full of cyclists on a sunny Sunday morning. Here is a plook back at the Chateau Frontenac from the ferry.

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And the many cyclists getting off in Lévis.

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Including these two intrepid ones about to embark on a 100 km ride.

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The infrastructure for cyclists is wonderful, especially near the city. Separate dedicated paths complete with citizen patrollers making sure everyone follows the right safety protocols.

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We face a fairly stiff and hot headwind all day. We get into a rhythm of switching the lead every two kilometers. It makes a big difference and also seems to make the time and distance go by quickly.

Here we can peak at the strength of the legs pushing up the hills and against the wind.

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And even see them in motion, however briefly.

We make it to the town of Port Joli where I find the most beautiful campsite of the trip so far. Right on the shore of the St Lawrence River facing the setting sun.

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Stats – for Sunday 29 July 2012

Start: Île d’Orléons
Finish : Port Joli
Distance: 98 km
Time on Bike: 4 hrs 57 min
Average Speed: 19.6 km/ hr
Distance to Date: 6,381 km

Resting on Île d’Orléans

After two long days of riding in high heat, I decide to take a rest day. I am well cared for by Peter and Judi Dunn and the day begins with all the fruits in season for breakfast.

Peter shows me around both Île d’Orléans and Quebec City on a glorious day of weather. We get to see bicycle time trials going on just below the Plains of Abraham. He also takes my bicycle and me to “Veloman”, the city’s best bicycle mechanic. It is time for yet another new chain.

So I get a rest, my bike gets a new chain and I get ready for the next day with a walk to see the sunset behind Quebec City.

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Stats – Saturday 28 July 2012 – Rest Day

Start: Île d’Orléans
Finish: Île d’Orléans
Distance to Date: 6,283 km

Long Ride to Quebec City

I leave Berthierville earlier than what is usual for me and get pedaling before 8 am. The hotel I found the night before offered a substantial breakfast, which helped me prepare for a hot day that could be as long as 200 km if I cycle all the way through Quebec City then over the lone bridge to Ile d’Orleans.

It is good that I left early because of two added challenges, the heat and a headwind. Again I follow La Route Verte and go through many small villages, each with its silver steepled church that anchors each downtown.

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As I am trying to pile on the miles and make it to Quebec City, I take few photographs. I did capture a bit of what it was like to cross one of the many small bridges, this one outside the town of St Anne de la Perade, a town known for its ice fishing. Not today.

I push on and on and make a stop for lunch at a roadside stand. The blueberries and the raspberries have just been picked and I eat a container full of each and my first massive order of Poutine. Maybe not the best choice on a hot day but a lot of calories to burn.

During the day I am in close contact with Peter Dunn, Pearson College Trustee and avid cyclist too. He will be hosting me during my visit to Quebec City. So that we can have dinner at a reasonable hour and I can avoid the bridge to Ile d’Orleans, which has no provision for cyclists, he greets me on the outskirts of the city with a car equipped with a bike rack. This is the first time the bike will be on a rack.

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In bicycle-rider time scale, it seems like in a few minutes we are on the other side of the city and up and over the bridge.

We settle down to a wonderful meal and conversation with all things that are fresh and in season. All enjoyed outside in a lovely garden.

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Stats – for Friday 27 July 2012

Start: Berthierville
Finish: Ile d’Orleans
Distance: 159 km
Time on Bike: 7 hrs 54 min
Average Speed: 20 km/hr
Distance to Date: 6,283 km

Leaving Montreal

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The day begins in the home of Benoit Charlebois and his wife Anna Maria. While I am deep in sleep, Benoit prepares a wonderful breakfast complete with items normally one would find on the breakfast table in Colombia. Yum.

I make my way to the cafe Santropol in Montreal for a gathering of alumni over lunch. As always it was inspiring to hear about what they are doing. I also get to understand more about what is behind the student protests in Montreal. I learn that it is much more than about tuition fees. Over a few hours, about ten alumni drop by. Including alumni from other UWCs, spanning about four decades. Several had never met before so it was a good way to connect them with each other.

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It is mid afternoon before I start cycling out of the city. Again, I have set myself a challenge to see if I can get to Quebec City, about 300 kilometers away, in two days.

It takes me what feels like forever to get off the island of Montreal. It is much longer than I think but all the way I follow a dedicated bike path. I do finally leave the city on a bridge with a special lane for bikes and begin following the north shore of the St Lawrence River and La Route Verte.

It is dark by the time I get to Berthierville. I did manage to get in one hundred kilometers even though I left Montreal late in the day. And I realize in my effort to make some reasonable distance, I hardly took out my camera all day.

I did manage a few shots of the river as the sun was setting.

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And one looking west after the sun fell below the horizon.

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Stats – for Thursday 26 July 2012

Start: Montreal
Finish: Berthierville
Distance: 100 km
Time on Bike: 5 hrs 25 min
Average Speed: 18.4 km/hr
Distance to Date: 6,125 km